Arwa Damon, Ghazi Balkiz, Muwafaq Mohammed and Brice Laine write for CNN:

On the main road cutting through the Karada district, the sidewalks are crowded with vendors hawking designer knock-offs and sticky sweets. Restaurants lining the boulevard grill masgouf, a butterflied carp considered to be Iraq's national dish, over open flames. People sit at outdoor cafés, sipping tea and smoking shisha.

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Iraq defeated ISIS more than a year ago. The group’s revival is already underway